A first look at Toronto's Smorgasburg, America’s largest open-air food market | TasteToronto
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A first look at Toronto's Smorgasburg, America’s largest open-air food market

Now that we’re energetically entering a pseudo-post-pandemic age of bigger is better, Smorgasburg is the summer food festival we need to match our insatiable mood. A U.S. import that attracts thousands of hungry diners each week, Smorgasburg is a celebration of local culinary creatives and the bold, ingenious dishes they make that leave us wanting more.

Founded in 2011, Smorgasburg was originally a spin-off to the Brooklyn Flea. Co-founded by Jonathan Butler and Eric Demby, this weekly market was created to highlight “hundreds of top vendors,” of everything from furniture and antiques to art and jewellery. Named one of the top markets in the world by several media outlets, Brooklyn Flea is a prime attraction for anyone visiting New York City.

From the same team, Smorgasburg was thought up as an incubator where makers can connect with food lovers in one happy, snack-centric, open-air jubilee. Immensely popular -- thanks to a carefully curated, rotating list of vendors and direct access to invigorating flavours -- the concept has grown to include locations in Manhattan, Jersey City, Miami and Los Angeles, with pop-ups in Osaka, Japan and Sao Paolo, Brazil.

This July, Toronto welcomes Smorgasburg to its first Canadian locale, at 7 Queens Quay East, in partnership with Waterfront Toronto. Produced by Landon Logie, an event producer specializing in culinary events, the market also counts food writer Suresh Doss and cocktail expert Evelyn Chick among its organizers. A local culinary guru, it’s no wonder Doss was tasked with curating the food program for Smorgasburg Toronto.

“When we’re going to new cities, if we can find someone like Suresh, the whole game changes,” explains co-founder Demby. “We kind of get this moment when we meet someone who can be our, really our curator, but also really build the community from the city,” he adds. The idea, is for people not to think of Smorgasburg Toronto as a franchise, or a “branch of the original,” but to view the event “as fully-owned by the city it exists [in].”

At its core, “Smorgasburg has always been about small businesses and diversity,” says Demby. “It’s really important to us that we represent geographically, demographically, all the different parts of a city, and [have] it really be a platform for people to grow who don’t have access to capital or can’t open a restaurant,” he adds. Highlighting that point, is a roster that includes more than 50 vendors from across Toronto, representing “its culinary diversity and burgeoning food and arts scene."

With eight weeks of programming to fill, it’s safe to say that the team has been busy vetting potential vendors. To date, they’ve confirmed a number of local standouts, including Kiss My Pans, Afro Beat Kitchen, The Secret Chef, Rick’s Good Eats, Poppadum, FeasTO, Noctua Bread, Spice Girl Eats and Hielito Bites. On the menu, are a range of sweet and savoury dishes guaranteed to ensure repeat customers.

An event dubbed “The Woodstock of Eating,” by The New York Times, Smorgasburg Toronto promises to offer escape and love through a feast of delectable bites. Eat, explore, and enjoy at an event that welcomes established and aspiring food vendors and guarantees to sate, body and soul. Smorgasburg Toronto opens on July 23 and will run for eight weeks from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Photographs by Larry Heng