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156 Cumberland
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Opening a restaurant is usually a months-long process. Sometimes, it could even take years. But for the owners of 156 Cumberland, all they had was about a month.
While head chef and co-owner MJ was working at a restaurant next door in Yorkville, he met the investor who would soon pass him the keys to the space next door where 156 Cumberland currently stands. Talk about the right place at the right time, eh?
A restaurant whose name circumvents asking for its location, the modern Korean joint is located in the heart of Yorkville, surrounded by other buzzing bars and eateries, all placed together in a Tetris-like hodgepodge.
“We actually had to come up with a name very quick, like, within a couple of weeks,” co-owner Jen said. “And we were trying to think of names, and then we're like, ‘Oh, I don't know. Just call it 156 Cumberland.”
From a hurried opening to being a part of the Michelin Guide, the restaurant came a long way in a short period. And that is a testament to all the staff who worked hard to create a Korean phenomenon enjoyed by all who walk through the doors.
The exterior is white stone with black accents and large windows to break up the style. The rustic facade plays a dichotomous role when compared to the elevated modern food served inside. As for the interiors, they represent a bygone era when French restaurant Chabrol used to call the space its home. Since the restaurant opened in such a short time, a lot of the budget went into fixing the functional side of things, like the equipment, rather than changing how the insides looked.
While Jen mentioned that the interior doesn’t really reflect the restaurant’s style and the kind of food it serves, it is still quite mesmerizing to look at and experience. Dimly lit, moody and sexy, it perfectly fits in with the overall vibe that the Yorkville neighbourhood exudes. The blackout curtains in the front completely encase you in your experience and make you forget about the outside world.
The main level feels a little more casual, with tiles on the wall opposite the plush velvet and leather banquette. The pink accents liven up the space along with the framed artwork that provides a pop of colour and change of pace from the ornate light fixtures that add a bit of formality to the space. The ceiling has an interesting pattern and is adorned with tiny lights that shimmer, giving off the feeling of dining under the night sky.
The upstairs feels like a different vibe altogether. Pinks blend into dark greens and the whole vibe gets moodier. With a mirror on one side, dark walls and rack lighting on the ceiling, the upstairs has a regal feel to it.
But then again, all the interiors in the world would mean nothing to a restaurant if the food did not back it up for the patrons. Thankfully, 156 Cumberland is built on a strong foundation of delicious and elevated Korean food.
“For the appetizer, we try to make something that's a little interesting using Korean ingredients,” MJ said. “[For] the main course, we are trying to serve Korean-stye flavours, with the different kinds of cuts we use.”
MJ’s philosophy is to take dishes that are already familiar to Canadians, like beef tartare or crudo, and subtly infuse traditional Korean flavours into them, so that people aren’t thrown off.
The beef tartare is an homage to the Korean dish “Yook-Hwe.” Served inside a fried tofu skin with gochujang, pickled daikons, fried scallions, and sous vide egg yolk, it is one of the signature dishes served at the restaurant.
The dish is a prime example of taking familiar flavours and elevating them, with the tofu skin lending itself to the eastern part of the world.
Usually, beef tartare is quite unctuous, but this one does a really good job of cutting through the fattiness with its fresh components and acidity. The fried scallions add a wonderful texture to each bite and the tofu skin incorporates a certain umaminess to the dish as a whole, rounding out the flavours.
“When I go on vacation, my mom would make tofu skin with rice. Very simple,” MJ said. “I wanted to make beef tartare in a very different way.”
The potato pancakes tip their cap to a traditional Korean dish called “Gamja-Hun.” They are topped with a spicy pollock roe mayonnaise, steamed mussels and dill.
The compressed pancakes act as a great foundation for the bounties of the ocean that crown it. The mussels and pollock roe come together to provide a real briny taste of the water in the best way possible. Since the fish eggs are emulsified into the sauce, it's light but also really intense in flavour at the same time, with the roe shining through the silkiness.
The luxurious sauce is complemented by the crunchy pancakes, providing a great texture bomb for the senses. With the addition of the steamed mussels, the overall flavour is amplified, making for a wonderful bite however you want to taste it.
“Jja-jang Myun” is the inspiration for the squid noodles presented at the restaurant. The dish is made up of pan-fried squid, a jjajang (Korean black bean) romesco, charred cabbage, sourdough crumbs, kimchi oil and topped with dill.
This dish is highly pleasing to the senses, with the fifth sense of umami shining through it all. The squid noodles have an almost al dente texture, like pasta. The charred cabbage lends a certain smokiness and pairs well with the earthy black bean paste that forms the base of the flavour profile.
The addition of dill, one of the most underrated herbs if you ask us, brightens up the palate and brings a whole new dimension to the dish. Remember, garnishes are not just to beautify the plate — they add a lot to the final product when used wisely.
When asked if he could pick just one dish to represent the restaurant, MJ said it would have to be the beef short rib — 156 Cumberland’s take on the ever-popular Korean BBQ.
The short rib is sous-vide for 48 hours before being finished off on the grill with a kalbi glaze. It is served with kimchi, lettuce wraps and a whole bunch of banchan, or side dishes.
The meat is undeniably tender — almost melting in your mouth. The sticky glaze goes well with the fresh accoutrements and is reminiscent of Korean flavours. Since it’s a build-your-own experience, one can go to town with different customizations based on personal preferences.
The soft meat pairs well with the crunch of the lettuce, and the dish as a whole provides a medley of flavours and textures. While it may look like different elements put together, a certain harmony and balance is running through the meal.
One gets acidity from the pickled jalapenos and cucumber kimchi, earthiness from the ssamjang sauce with coconut, a little kick from the wasabi crema and a latent sweetness from the glazed short rib. A sprinkle of kosher salt on the top goes a long way in rounding out the myriad flavours.
Toronto has always been a diverse food city, with many cultures from across the globe coming together and creating its culinary ecosystem. In recent years, it is safe to say that Korean food has seen a noticeable uptick in consumption and has become one of the major cuisines that people flock toward. With that in mind, it might get tough for restaurants to stand out, but 156 Cumberland is not too worried about that, given its innovative offerings.
“I think out of all the Korean restaurants in Toronto, almost all are serving traditional, authentic dishes. We’re not authentic,” MJ said. “We’re very different. It’s like kind of our own interpretation of traditional Korean dishes. So in that way, we do stand out a lot.”
He wants people to know that Korean food does not have to be so traditional and that it is completely okay to play around and have some fun with the dishes one cooks and serves. Usually, Korean restaurants around town are associated with a quick meal, MJ said, but he wants to change that perception.
“We want people to be able to come and celebrate. Have a good sit-down dining experience.”
Having been given keys to an already-existing space and given the task of making it their own, it’s clear that the team behind 156 Cumberland wasn’t given much of either a heads-up or choice into creating a restaurant that they could call their own. But even with all the obstacles at hand, they have done a wonderful job, working hard toward building their home, even if it might not necessarily fit in the Yorkville microcosm.
“I think Michelin wrote this in our description. They said we're a quirky restaurant that doesn't fit neatly within Yorkville,” Jen said. “But like, I think that's exactly what we are. It’s very random, I guess. And quirky. We don't fit neatly in this Yorkville standard [of] restaurants.”
We couldn’t have said it better ourselves.
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