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Central
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Central could not be more aptly named. Designed to be a gathering place, it’s comfortable and fresh, with a design that’s neither jarring nor cutting edge. Aimed at attracting a wide audience, its menu reflects culinary traditions from across the globe. Looking for happy hour? You’ll find it here. The big game? Ditto. Brunch? Daily features? A patio? Of course. In short, it’s a place that attracts by never narrowing its perspective. Casual with premium touches, it wears its easy-going personality proudly, seemingly giving diners exactly what they crave.
A sibling to CRAFT Beer Market, Central first opened in Calgary, in 2012. For the chain’s Ossington location, Way of Normal blended earth-toned finishes and natural materials with textured wall hangings and neon for a clean retro look. Inspired, no doubt, by owner PJ L’Heureux’s past life as a DJ, there’s a collection of records along one wall, while another exhibits a mural of Aaliyah.
“Ossington was the destination of choice,” says general manager, AJ Park. “We wanted to provide the neighbourhood with something that doesn’t really exist on this strip.” Already overrun with locals, many who have become regulars since the spot opened this summer, Central attracts a varied clientele, their ages, according to Park, ranging from the single digits to the upper dozens. “We’re very lucky to be able to capture a little bit of different demographics instead of being nestled into a certain one,” he adds.
Beyond the restaurant’s relaxed feel, it’s the eclectic menu that draws a diverse crowd. “If you have eight friends with various tastes, needs and wants, the menu has something for everybody,” explains Park. “We’ve done a really great job in capturing everything from different areas of the world: pizzas, Asian dishes, comfort food. There’s a little something for everyone.” Created by a development team, the menu is also often tweaked, though, assures Park, “continuity is important. We want people to feel that familiarity.”
For the older set, there’s also an abundance of drinks to ponder. Of the restaurant’s 24 taps, half pour beer, with a focus on local picks, while the others dispense wine and batched cocktails. “The quality of our batched cocktails is quite high,” assures Park. “We do them every day, everything fresh.”
There are also crowd favourites, including Shaft on Draft, a West-Coast import, Central Signatures, like the wine-laced NY Lavender Sour, and faithful renditions of the classics.
Spiked with tropical paloma slush, Rosé Sangria is the iciest way to sip on juice-thinned white wine and red wine syrup. Less frigid, Frosty Spiced Horchata combines white rum and Amaretto with condensed and coconut milks for a tropical, seriously sweet take on the classic.
Central’s food menu takes time to study. It jumps from crunchy shareables and sushi, to tacos, protein-forward entrées, sandwiches, salads, bowls, pizzas and desserts. Made from quality ingredients and house-made elements (head chef Phil Allain’s kitchen is “very prep-heavy,” offers Park), the team’s comfort-food repertoire has a specific type of appeal.
Draped across Lego-sized blocks of seasoned and pressed rice, sustainable tuna is dressed with sesame mango purée, unagi sauce and kewpie mayo for a starter with a tangle of layered flavours.
A dose of miso in the dressing subs in for anchovy umami in Central’s Chicken Caesar Salad. Topped with tender protein, a perfectly runny egg, scads of crisp pork belly and golden garlic breadcrumbs, it’s as naughty as a salad dare to be.
From a list of mains, Mexican Street Chicken is savoury and smoky, its heat level dialed down to low. As with the Teriyaki Salmon Bowl, it boasts a heap more vegetables than is common on restaurant dishes. Here, it’s a bed of green beans and smashed potatoes arranged atop zippy cilantro mojo sauce. There, it’s a generous serving of al dente broccolini, mushrooms, peppers, zucchini, onions and carrots. Sweet and garlicky, a bed of jasmine rice soaking up the house sauce, it balances comfort with finesse.
Another place to showcase those pork belly shards, Truffle Mushroom and Pork Belly Fettucine is the team’s take on Alfredo. Said pork belly, plus a smattering of crunchy onions introduce texture to an otherwise smooth and creamy dish.
Because nothing says kicking back and relaxing like sharing an oversized dessert, Central presents the Maui Pie, an ice cream cake built from macadamia-studded vanilla gelato drizzled with fudge. A good deal more dramatic than what you might have at home, it satisfies the same cravings as a grocery store ice cream bar.
And maybe, that’s the point. Central isn’t here for confrontation. It’s not a place where you’ll feel compelled to try new things or be forced to step far out of your comfort zone. It’s a place where you’re invited to relax, to peruse the menu for familiar dishes enhanced by an experienced team. Have your pizza, your ramen, your Pabst and your prosecco. Then, end your night with vanilla ice cream. Because sometimes, that’s exactly what you want.
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