Florin Trattoria

Written By

Christine Peddie

Photographs By

Carbelle Djossa

Like Florence’s famed wine windows, Florin Trattoria is a gem hidden in plain sight. Built on a foundation of thoughtful touches, the new Financial District spot embraces Florentine traditions against a backdrop of Toronto’s buzzy downtown core.

The newest venture from family-run Turner Hospitality Group, Florin continues the team’s tradition of bringing tailored dining concepts to life. At Poppy’s, in Collingwood, they’ve captured the intangible allure of a charming French bistro. In Thornbury, Winifred’s tips its hat to English pub traditions. Toronto’s Mother Tongue, meanwhile, is a sexy, sultry spot peddling a seductive lineup of modern Asian dishes.

At Florin, the group has plumbed Florence’s vibrant history and rich culinary roots, their diligence translating to a space, by Solid Design Creative, that harnesses the old-world warmth of a Tuscan trattoria. Located in a 1920s heritage building, the restaurant marries old with new, Florentine elegance with a generous dash of Toronto-style swagger.

“We wanted it to feel very layered when you walked in,” explains Shelby Turner, director of Turner Hospitality Group’s Toronto operations. “Everything is very intentional,” she adds, pointing to the decorative wall panels featuring Florentine flora, the ubiquitous Giglio Florentino logo, and the brass inlayed terrazzo floors. For those not paying attention, even the restaurant’s name (the florin is the original currency of Florence), was chosen for its inherent connection to the Financial District.

In designing the restaurant’s menus, executive chef Francis Bermejo let Italy lead the way even as he held tightly to the locales Toronto roots. “This is a nod to Florence and, specifically, Tuscan cuisine. However, it is heavily influenced by Toronto because these are the people that are in the kitchen, working here,” explains Turner. Made with local ingredients, plus a few invaluable imports, dishes at Florin are as regional as they’d be in the Tuscan capital.

Invented in Florence in the early 20th century, the Negroni earns its own section of the inspired cocktail menu. There, diners will find a classic, a local riff, made with Spirit of York Gin, and the Negroni Sour, a novice’s version softened by orange cordial and delicate egg white foam. “We have a Negroni collection that will continue to grow,” explains Turner. “We like to keep the bones of the Negroni but put creative spins on it.”

Further on, martinis, spritzes, seasonal and spirit-free drinks get their due. Subtly savoury and licked with salt, the Pepperoncini Martini is already a social media darling. Campari, dry white wine, Select Aperitivo and Meletti Amaro, meanwhile, are a restorative quartet set against a citrusy grapefruit backdrop in the Bicicletta Estevia.

Ideal with any one of the former, Zucca Fritti is a zippy, crunchy starter contrasted by the silky smoothness of its mascarpone mousse pillow. Essentially a naked ravioli, traditionally Tuscan Gnudi are plump orbs of spinach and ricotta seasoned with sage, lemon and the nutty balm of brown butter.

Before or nearer to the end of a meal, as many Italians prefer, Radicchio e Endivia Al Limone is agreeably bitter with riveting crunch, its vibrant leaves lifted by the perky pucker of citronette dressing and the sharp allure of 24-month parm.

Made in-house, stuffed pastas include beef-chuck tortelli and agnolotti plumped with salt cod and potato. From ribbons of tagliatelle to precious, ruffle-edged gigli, other varieties are sourced from Tiny Market Co., then sauced judiciously by the skillful kitchen team. Meaty and devastatingly rich, wild boar ragù coats and clings every surface area in Pappardelle Al Ragu Toscano.

Seasoned simply, then grilled, each behemoth Bistecca All Fiorentina clocks in at an impressive one kilo, minimum. Though Florin’s version is made with Canadian Prime beef, in place of the traditional Chianina, its provenance is unlikely to raise any eyebrows once diners sink their teeth into that first beefy, juicy, caramelized bite. Partnered with Fritte Con Tartufo, a deceptively complex dish that elevates the humble potato with a significant amount of love, it’s a masterstroke that brings one of Tuscany’s most iconic dishes to Toronto tables.

“We specifically call this a trattoria because we didn’t want it to feel super high end. We wanted it to feel approachable,” says Turner of Florin’s carefully curated character. Dripping with Italian touches, with impeccable service, an inviting room and regional dishes that, like so many Italian classics, close the divide between rustic and refined, Florin is both seriously sophisticated and palpably unpretentious. As far as dining concepts go, this feels like one that Toronto diners will scramble to get behind.

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