Cassius Cucina Contemporanea

King West

Italian

Written By

Christine Peddie

Photographs By

Kristen Wells

If the name doesn’t tip you off, take the menu of antipasti, primi and pizzette, the Italo-house music and the cocktails laced with Campari, Amaretto, Malfy Gin and more as proof that Cassius Cucina Contemporanea is seriamente Italiano. A supper club where diners are eased from polished dinners through to ebullient evenings, Cassius brings Italian-style sophistication to King West’s ever-buzzing party scene.

“A lot of people don’t do supper clubs properly,” states Bruno Commodari, Cassius co-owner, along with Pat Lisi. Previously involved with Montreal import Buonanotte, Commodari should know. The transition, he explains, should be seamless. “Your head’s down. You’re eating your pasta and all of a sudden you look up and the music got a little higher, the lights came down.”

Disinterested in “gimmicks,” the goal, he adds, is to offer patrons, “good food, good service, good music. A good time.”

Helmed by an all-Italian team, Cassius is what Commodari calls a “pure Italian restaurant.” It’s not, however, purely Italian in the way you might think. This being King West, it’s more trendy than trattoria.

Modern and striking, the space was clad in chrome and leather by Toby Gauley, of Design Program, its ceiling-mounted LED screens veiling the goings-on in a dynamic rainbow of bold hues. Described by Commodari as “Rick Owens meets Yves Saint Laurent,” the restaurant boasts a singular look that’s already delighting an insatiable King West crowd.

In harmony with the restaurant’s design, executive chef Michael Frigo’s varied menu features Italian classics given a contemporary spin. Dishes here aren’t so outré as to stun, but they’re not made quite the way nonna would decree. Chef begins with quality ingredients, many imported from Italy, then plays with techniques and plating, recipes and global influences to arrive at an Italian menu peppered with originality.

From mixologist Shani Haynes, cocktails are brimming with Italian flavours and liqueurs. “We want to bring you back to the Amalfi coast,” laughs Commodari. A stocked, temperature-controlled wine cellar leans, naturally, old-world, with 75% of bottles sourced from la bel paese.

Start the night with delicate nibbles of cured Branzino. Draped atop goat cheese, they’re partnered with a vivid pool of smoked tomatoes for a bracing but balanced first bite. From there, dive into indulgence with signature Carciofo Cacio & Pepe. Inspired by the Roman classic, the dish is made with pecorino fondue and Sichuan pepper paired, not with pasta, but with the salty, earthy bite of fried globe and Jerusalem artichokes

Meant to be shared, pizzette, primi and secondi range from margherita pies dressed with buffalo mozzarella and organic tomato sauce to roasted octopus drizzled with black-tea infused salted caramel.

House egg-yolk pasta swaddles ricotta filling in Agnolotti Ai Funghi, with rich porcini mushrooms, Parmigiano Reggiano Vacche Rosse and optional black truffle shavings taking the tidy pillows into more solidly showy territory.

Along with sweet, meaty pops of shrimp, Risotto Asparagi is dotted with tender morsels of spring’s fairest crop and melty, diaphanous sheets of lardo. A type of silky, savoury salume, the unexpected addition amps up the seasoning and creaminess of the dish.

From the menu’s heartier secondi section, Anatra e Mandarino is a finely balanced main of confit duck, tangerine compote, mustard honey demi-glace and spinach.

Beyond the lure of watching Cassius don its DJ-fueled post-dinner persona, chef’s dolci will have you lingering in your seat as long as possible. Classics designed to sate traditionalists, their reliance on chocolate, mascarpone, coffee and more make them a fairly safe bet with most diners. Can’t decide between voluptuous Tiramisu and dark, extravagant Semifreddo Rocher? Order them both and make some friends.

As owners of the building, not just the restaurant, the team has grand plans to fill its every empty space. Eventually, says Commodari, visitors can expect a lower-level lounge, a rooftop bar and a patio. Already, guests will find an art gallery and a bespoke men’s tailor tucked away on the second floor.

“We want people to come here and say ‘Wow,’ and experience the great food, service. But then they can stay here. That’s what we’re going to offer. It’s a one-stop shop.”

A departure from King West’s more casual destinations, Cassius invites guests to lean into the glamour of a night out. “We want to bring a more elevated, finer-dining experience to the area,” says Commodari. “It’s fantastic, people are coming dressed up. Women dressed up, guys in their blazers. We’ve lost that along the way. … It’s nice to see that coming back.”

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